Monday, April 13, 2009

The temperature in Kampala

“I’m more than alive. I’m African, you know that.”

I have been a Navio fan since way back when I was a broke, struggling hack at a weekly newspaper called The Sunrise whose offices are still in the National Theater. Amazed that, unable to afford my own mobile phone handset then, had called on a public payphone, the whole of Klear Kut would turn up at The National Theater to be interviewed by me.

When you have been as poor as I have been, you can smell money and you never confuse that smell with the smack of class. They are two things you spend your musing nights striving to think up new ways of attaining and spit-polishing your tired shoes to help you aspire to. Now a meeting of money and class can be overwhelming and that is what had happened during that first interview when in the midst of this bustling, frat friendly Klear Kut group, I had their attention. There have not been many times when meeting someone I’m supposed to interview I have been dazed into forgetting what I’m supposed to be doing there. Meeting Klear Kut for the first time was one of those rare occasions.

Looking back now, looking at the photos they posed for in front of the National Theatre, prancing, strutting, mugging, five years ago, the start-ups and upstarts we all were, make me smile. Exactly the same smile that crept on my lips as I heard Kid Fox begin No Culcha, off Navio’s solo album Half the Legend. Kid Fox sounding like some bygone 19th century European explorer and anthropologist summing up the results of an African adventure, probably at the court of Kabaka Muteesa I, portentously announcing, “What we found was a completely uncultured society barren of any true culture.”

You want to smile and shake your head in pity at those fools who thought being African was spear carrying and it seemed uncoordinated native dance we broke into without seeming prior notice like we were in an earlier musical film of sorts. You want to bunch your first, shake Frantz Fanon’s Wretched of the Earth, and declaim, “We showed you! We are still here! We have refused to die like you wanted!” No Culcha is that kind of dangerous song! It makes your blood boil and it makes you hold your head high, and it sends your heart gleefully somersaulting like boys enjoying their acrobatic athleticism. You want to be in a night club when this song comes on and ‘cut’ some strokes like before you had any cares. It revives!

No Culcha made me listen to that other gem I have never had time for, I confess now, Kid Fox, never mind I have ridden in his battered Toyota wondering if my career was on the right track. Reminding me, No Culcha, when great voices tango like lovers, outside the booth concerns discarded, how watching or listening or reading or loving and you happen to witness to giftedness unfurling you can never be a pessimist or hate life however much suffering you go through. You know without a doubt that you are in the presence of divinity and you do not need anymore to have been there but you know how pacing up and down trim and slender Museveni must have felt when the soldier came and saluted and announced, “Kampala is secure. Kampala is ours, Sir!” after twenty years of active sabotage and fruitless planning, because that 27th comrade was in actuality saying, “Here is Kampala, it is yours at last,” and he could look into Janet’s eyes and see no more scorn at his underachievement anymore. The days of dreading terror over.

That kind of immensity, that is what we have when you hear No Culcha for the first time, and then pause stunned as Kid Fox trails off. You wonder if in replay two hours later, the magic will still be there. Will parts of your heart that had not throbbed in joy since you gave up on so many things throb again as the opening bars of No Culcha begin with those calculative drumstick snaps? Can No Culcha possibly be as good as my emotive ear made them, and then you click the play of that media player and it is better than you remembered!

Now if you listen closely, No Culcha might not only be one of the best club bangers you have listened to, it could also be one of the most controversial songs in a long time released by a Ugandan singer. There is a line or two there I suspect Navio was chuckling as he rapped into the mid section of the song that I think you should find for yourself instead of me prejudicing you against the song. Bound to make some people clap rhythmically in delight and some howling for the temple walls to be torn down and the bastions breached. I was five hearings into No Culcha before I caught my breath and I was like, ‘Wait, did he say…hell, he did! Balls!” The slyness of it all!

Thank you Navio, for No Culcha. I would have rhapsodized about Robbery, also off Half the Legend, that chiller for all the cool kids who are often stunned to find themselves unmasked and in love for the first time, hey tell us about it! But No Culcha with Kid Fox featuring, don’t let no man doubt you! Set the sky in my mind on fire. I want to blow the last good ear I have. No Culcha overdosing. The path to heaven is through a rasta’s garden.


~ScotchBiscuits~ said...

You know that unbelievably good feeling when it rains in the night, right after you turn out the light and you have the covers right up to your chin,and the rain on the roof soothes you to sleep?
It is like that, when you write about music! It is like bedtime rain!!!

sleek said...

I can touch the emotion in this one: for a few sentences, u were incoherent...Trouble is, i can't download the song..either i wait for radio to pick up on it(like in two years) or i try Music land(which probably doesn't have it yet)...Iwaya,suggestions?

sleek said...

lol at scotch...u shd write a book u know(if u haven't yet)..u have a way with imagery

The 27th Comrade said...

Great writing, Iwaya.
Great, I say. :o)

Christ of Nazareth. I broke two rules for this one. (The one of not commenting ever until I'm totally back, and the one of never commenting before arriving at the end of the article. 'Tis that Great.)

The 27th Comrade said...

Oh, Dear Jesus, I'm in the article!!!
Ya Allah! I'm in the Article! Ye-fucking-ss! :o)

The 27th Comrade said...

Yeah, 'tis a great write. :o) I'm Sevo! I'm the article! ;o)

. v i c t o r y . said...

hi there!
i live in sweden but i am orgininally from Uganda. since i havent been in UG for like 12 years now(going there this summer) i am thrilled and excited to know what'sup there n stuff.. after reading some lines throuhout your blog i find your life pretty interesting. n e ways my name i victoria Bogere and i'm 20 years old. you might not understand my blog, but a have translator on my blog that could help a bit. just in case you want to follow mine.

have nice day and stay cool.

normzo said...

u got my blog..gave u an Honest Scrap Award...